Perhaps Justly Worried About Gringo Invasion?

by Janet
(Houston TX)

Your commentary has reinforced my worries about Cuenca. There's also a recent article in The Economist about the bus loads of "gringos"
http://www.economist.com/node/21543491

I finally have a ticket for Ecuador, and Cuenca, in March, and I fear I'm too late. I have researched Ecuador, and South America for three years. I've traveled all over Europe, lived in France for 2 years when I was younger, spent a lot of Mexico and been to Peru.

I used to think about Mexico, maybe Oaxaca, but the drug wars and general disruption to civil society preclude that for now. Cuenca seemed like such a delightful place - the combination of Spanish and indigenous culture, a World Heritage Site, beauty and culture, the chance to perfect my Spanish, even a symphony (I'm a violist and orchestra teacher in a bilingual school in Houston). I would want to assimilate and become fluent in Spanish. I didn't want to live in a place like so many ex-pats do in Mexico where there is a two tier society.

Yes, I was attracted by the lower cost of living (as someone with a relatively small retirement who wants a new adventure before full retirement age) and it sounds like ex-pats are causing serious inflation, and creating resentment and impacting local culture. I know that well from Cuzco where the children begging on the plaza make more than their parents who do an honest day's work, and get pulled out of school...

I've recently wondered if I should change my itinerary and look at smaller villages and other places in Ecuador where International Living and their cohorts haven't contorted the market. I don't want to be "the ugly American". Maybe I should consider Uruguay?

I love the Spanish language and culture: my students in Houston are bilingual and my major was history. I speak fluent French and want to perfect my Spanish. I would hope to set up a violin/viola studio, and maybe teach English (I've taught school in the US for 16 yrs), or have a quasi bed and breakfast.

How bad is the "gringo invasion"? Am I too late for Cuenca and should look elsewhere? I'm very adventurous, and can live simply.

Thanks.

Janet

*****

Janet, it's good that you're thinking about this. Many show up here knowing only what IL or Ecuador Living has told them.

There are a lot of gringos here who have jumped right into the Cuencano community. It's not all as bad as it might seem.

Yes, some like to hang out at the expat restaurants, but my guess is that it's as much for a taste of home as it is to hang with English speakers.

There are a lot of music schools here. I don't know if there are any for the viola. So you might be able to jump right into the community with a school. You could certainly approach the symphony and see about joining, if you want to. They have a Ukrainian violinist.

Come and spend your few weeks here. If you're not enchanted, then look elsewhere. There are beautiful places on the coast without many gringos, although they usually have fewer services as well. But buses run to Salinas and Manta practically every 5 minutes.

Don't give up on EC yet!

Jeff

Comments for
Perhaps Justly Worried About Gringo Invasion?

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Move to Cuenca
by: Linda

My feelings are the same as Janet's. My brother and I are visiting for a week in June and hope to make a decision then. We are so excited about starting a new life and integrating into the local community. We are learning Spanish, too. Good luck, Janet.

Linda

Give it a try....
by: Len Langevin

I agree with everything Jeff says....

Regarding inflation, Cuenca may be one of the places where the gringo market is forcing prices up (in certain parts), but in general for the country, the gringo buyers are just a sliver of the total real estate market.

As for your Ugly American comment (I prefer Ugly Gringo because it's not just Americans), they do exist here, but I think they are in the minority. And if you come here with the mindset that you don't want to be one, then you've already overcome that problem.

Like Jeff says, make a visit to Cuenca... you may love it or you may find it's not for you. Check out the coast or other parts of Ecuador. I'm on the eastern slope of the Andes in a place called Baños - also known as the gateway to Amazonia.

Ecuador does have a lot to offer, but just about any gringo here will also tell you that it's not for everyone - particularly if you don't check the North American ego at the customs gate.

No te preocupes
by: Greg

I agree with Len and Jeff. It's not for everyone, no place is. The only way you are going to know whether it is for you or not is to come on down and try it on for size. Whether it fits or not, you will have your answer.

Any negative things you are reading about you are reading in a vacuum. Everything seems worse when you put it under a spotlight. Many of these things happen in most cities around the world. You have to watch out for yourself wherever you go in the world. There will always be something you do not like wherever you go.

As Len points out, the gringo buyers are just a sliver. In my opinion it is not the gringos driving the prices up, it is the Ecuadoreans. They are the ones setting the prices, gringos are just paying them and all too happy about it sometimes, until they learn what the price should have been. It's too late then though.

If you do end up around the Baños area, I hear Len makes killer sushi in his restaurant.

Come Check It Out!
by: new resident

Ecuador has SO much to offer. Many people start in Cuenca and then realize there may be a better fit elsewhere in Ecuador. Other people start somewhere else and discover Cuenca is their favorite city!

You really have to spend some time in the country and then it will become much clearer. Be open to what you discover, it may be very different than what you started out expecting, but it is all good!

The Churches Are Still Run-down
by: Jane

My husband and I are in Cuenca now. We came after having read all the hype about it. We in fact came prepared to invest in real estate here, now, for our eventual retirement (from US).

But one day here and we know it's not for us. Cuenca is a pretty town with many churches, and that seems to be it. It's too quiet for us - even when we are actually retired.

What is disturbing is that even when real estate has escalated 60-75% since 2008, many churches lack upkeep, with interiors visibly run-down. The essence of the city has not benefited from the drove of newcomers; somehow that doesn't feel right.

The blue buses spew out gusts of black smoke as they drive by, as in Quito. It won't be long before the Cuenca valley has a pollution issue unless the government does something about it really soon.

But we do enjoy the local people. They are very friendly.

Not So Worried About the Gringo Invasion
by: Janet

I just saw more comments in the thread, including mine from March a year ago. I'm more seasoned now and planning to move next month.

A year ago, during my week in Cuenca, I was enraptured by the architecture in the historical center, and my excellent dentist who did an implant.

I spent another month in July traveling mostly along the spine of the Andes, including Cuenca, for almost two weeks. I was loaned a bike and rode all over, and appreciated the two rivers and their environs in the city, and I got perspective.

There is definitely a gringo area, of mostly newer condos, that doesn't interest me. There are many lovely neighborhoods. We gringos are a drop in the bucket.

I don't know now long Cuenca will be my home. I loved Chordeleg, many other mountainous areas, and I may have a job soon teaching strings in Cusco, if I choose. But I believe Cuenca has real possibilities, along with its beauty and a charming, warm erudite class that I think it's possible to matriculate in. So not just gringos!

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